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OTHER
OPTIONS
1 - Tongue and groove
-
Pre-drill 7/32" diameter holes
- Countersink
holes and use 2" length #8 stainless steel flat-head
wood screws
- Leave
a space of 1/32" between each plan
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2
- Brackets
-
Pre-drill holes (1/8-in diam.) into each plank at
a depth of 3/4 in.
- Fit
planks with galvanized metal angles. Working from
under, secure planks to joists.
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| Tools |
- PERMA-DECK can be cut, drilled,
mitered and sanded with conventional wood working
tools. Carbide tipped saw blades are required. Carbide
tipped router bits can be used for smoother edge
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| Fasteners |
- Stainless steel screws are
required. Install 2 per end of board and alternate
in the middle
- Pre-drilling is required on
all decking boards. Pre-drill with a hole overboard
to the next screw size (1/4" drill bit for #10 screws)
- All fasteners should be placed
no closer than ¾" from any edge
- The uses of adhesives is not
recommended
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| Design
considerations |
- PERMA-DECK will expand and
contract approx. ¼" per 8 board feet over a wide range
in temperature. Design considerations should allow
for this movement
- When framing, the end of each
PERMA-DECK decking board must be on a full joist
- Before installing PERMA-DECK
on your wood frame, make sure the frame is fully dried,
leveled and squared
- If you need to notch a PERMA-DECK
deck board around a post you must only use " L" notch.
The board can be no longer than 4 feet and you must
have at least a ¼" gap at the post
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Click
on image to enlarge
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| Spans |
- The maximum decking span is
12" on center for 1" thick boards and 16" on center
for 5/4, 2x6 and Tongue and groove boards at 90 degrees
of the joist. For conventional designs with proper
support systems, consult PERMA-DECK span chart for
specific guidance
- Abnormal boarding on the deck
surface with large planter, hot tubs, etc. may require
shorter spans and/or additional sub-structure supports
- If installing on a 30 or 45
degree angle, call your distributor for design considerations
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